Bored marbles, slate mines, and a castle in North Wales

Aberystwyth, Wales — Let’s start with the castle as my tour of Wales with Tim and Caroline Palmer continues. Above is the storied Harlech Castle in North Wales. It was built of sandstone blocks by Edward I in the 13th century, passing through four major conflicts: The Revolt of Madog ap Llywelyn (1294–95), the Revolt of Owain Glyndŵr (1400–09), the Wars of the Roses (1460–68), and the English Civil War (1642–47). The siege in 1468 apparently inspired the stirring song “Men of Harlech“. (Hear it and read the lyrics on this YouTube page. The song is unforgettable in the 1964 film Zulu.)

When built, Edward I made very sure Harlech Castle could be supplied by sea, so there was a water-gate on the shore. This is now the view of the ocean from the castle — it is far away, with a significant dune field along the shore. I could not find out why the shoreline retreated from the castle; it may have been a combination of sedimentation and isostatic rebound of the land in slow response to the end of glaciation.

In 1709 a ship sank off the coast of Barmouth, Wales, submerging an expensive load of 43 blocks of Carrara Marble from Italy. One two-ton block was recovered after centuries on the seafloor and sculpted by an artist (Frank Cocksey) to celebrate the millennium. It is called The Last Haul, representing three generations of fishermen pulling in a net.

It is beautiful carving … but you know I’m not showing it for the art. Check out the holes throughout!

This marble block is heavily bioeroded by marine organisms, producing the clavate borings Gastrochaenolites (by bivalves), a network of connected small chambers (Entobia, made by sponges), and long narrow cylindrical borings known as Trypanites (by worms). There is a cool story to sort out here about the pattern and rate of bioerosion in these cold seas. [UPDATE: The Curious Scribbler has a new post on these marbles with lots of information and ideas. You may even recognize some people in the images.]

Our last site of the day was the Welsh town of Blaenau Ffestiniog. Slate mining made this place, starting in the middle of the 18th century. The surrounding mountains have a rich grade of Welsh slate useful for many industrial and structural applications. The town square (above) has a monument to its slate heritage.

This mountain above Blaenau Ffestiniog has been heavily carved for its slate.

One quarry remains operational. The Welsh slate industry declined significantly during World War I and never fully recovered. Note the massive mounds of slate debris.

Slate mining produces large amounts of waste rock. Up to 90% of the slate removed from a quarry is unusable and piled up. Blaenau Ffestiniog is surrounded by man-made mountains of loose slate debris.

Thus ended another diverse day of Welsh experiences with Tim and Caroline Palmer.

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A narrow-gauge train trip in Mid Wales

Aberystwyth, Wales — Caroline Palmer provided Tim and me a wonderful experience in a scenic Welsh valley on a perfect Welsh day. She is Trustee of the nearby Hafod Estate ( … one of the finest examples in Europe of a Picturesque landscape.”) This estate is one of the places where pine martens have been re-introduced to Wales from Scotland. In that office she received three tickets (and lunches) for us to take a ride on one of the “Great Little Trains of Wales” to a celebration of a new train carriage and a Pine Marten center. It was delightful for both the natural views and the people involved.

We took the Vale of Rheidol Railway with this coal-fired steam engine pulling our narrow-gauge carriages. We sat in the open car directly behind the engine, so I could watch the crew in action and feel the occasional cool droplets condensed from the steam (and a whiff or two of coal smoke).

This was our route from Aberystwyth to Devil’s Bridge. (Map from Wikipedia.)

A view from the train traveling up the Vale of Rheidol. Very green and steep.

This valley has numerous silver and lead mines from the early 20th century and before, leaving scattered tailings piles like this one, along with significant heavy-metals pollution in some places.

We were greeted in Devil’s Bridge by the Mynach Community School Choir singing Welsh songs. They were fun. I felt the red-headed boy’s discomfort, though!

We ended the delightful day with a quick visit to the 13th century Aberystwyth Castle, a remnant of which was brilliantly lit by the setting sun.

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A Wooster Geologist in Wales (continued)

Aberystwyth, Wales — After the successful Larwood Meeting in Cardiff, I took a train to Carmarthen and met my friends Tim and Caroline Palmer for a delightful few days in Wales seeing building stones and geological sites. I’ve known Tim and Caroline since 1985, and Tim and I have published much together. Not only was I again adding to my knowledge of geology (and as always thinking of student Independent Study projects), but I was seeing old friends with whom I have much in common.

Above is Laugharne Castle in the town of Laugharne of Dylan Thomas fame. The castle was originally built by the Norman lords as part of a chain of strongholds to constrain the Welsh. You can read about the history of the site here.

The rock on which the castle was built was even more interesting, of course. It is Old Red Sandstone (Devonian), showing a facies a bit mysterious to us. It has trace fossils (Diplocraterion?), climbing ripples, and what may be dewatering structures.

One of my favorite activities is to go into Medieval churches with Tim and study the building stones and other stonework. Here is Tim examining an effigy in the Llanfihangel Abercywyn church interior. Tim is an expert on building stones in Great Britain, especially the sedimentary ones used most often in Medieval and earlier structures.

The baptismal font is usually the oldest stone object in a church because it can survive longer than larger, more complex parts.

A very special treat was seeing this stone at the end of our day. It is a monolith 1.4 meters high inscribed with “CORBALENGI IACIT ORDOVS”. This translates to: “Here lies Corbalengi the Ordovician”. It is thus called the Corbalengi Stone. It is Celtic and probably from the sixth century. It is one of the very few inscriptions mentioning the Ordovices tribe, from whom the geological period Ordovician is named. For those of us who work in the Ordovician, this is special. We like to think of Corbalengi as the Last of the Ordovices, although there is no other evidence for this.

A closer view of the Corbalengi Stone.

A much better image of the Corbalengi Stone, taken from this site. What a great start for the second half of my explorations of Wales.

Finally, I had to add this image of driving in Wales. This is a two-way road. Tim is a superb driver, for which I’m grateful!

 

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A Smith Map in Wales

Cardiff, Wales — Today Caroline Buttler and I met in the National Museum Wales and worked on an Ordovician bryozoan project together. There was nothing very picturesque going on until Caroline asked if I wanted to see their original William Smith 1815 geological map of England and Wales. The map that changed the world? Of course! There is part of it carefully unfolded above.

I professionally intersected with The Map on its 200th anniversary in 2015. I participated in a celebratory symposium at the annual Geological Society of America meeting, giving a talk entitled: “William Smith as a paleontologist: his views on the origin of fossils, their preservation and the history of life.” (Geological Society of America Abstracts with Programs 47(7): 24.) It was fun and I’ve closely followed studies of Smith and his map since then. This was thus a treat! Thanks, Caroline.

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Last day of the Larwood meeting: Museum collections and a coal mine tour

Cardiff, Wales — On our last day of the Larwood Meeting, we finished up business in the morning and then had guided tours of the marine, mollusc, and fossil collections in the National Museum Wales (above).

Highlights for me included this modern gastropod shell (a cold-water whelk from Alaska) collected by my hero Captain James Cook in 1778 a year before he was killed. A quote from Cook: “Ambition leads me … farther than any other man has been before me”. James Kirk of Star Trek is partly modeled after him.

Here’s another evocative modern shell: Conus gloriamaris, once thought to be the rarest shell and thus enormously valuable.

Here is the label for the specimen. It lists the 12 known specimens at the time. It is still popular among collectors, but now much more common. The excellent mollusc type collection of the Cardiff Museum is online.

The last activity for the Larwood crew was a tour of a coal mine turned into a museum: The Big Pit. Coal in South Wales played a huge role in the Industrial Revolution, as did Welsh iron ore. This mine tells the story of coal in Wales by taking visitors underground into the workings.

We couldn’t take images in the mine itself because of fire hazards, but Hans Arne Nakrem got a shot of the group prepared to go down the shaft. We had a great time with our story-telling guide. Our walk through the tunnels was punctuated by the loud bangs of my helmet on the ceilings. (It’s not just that I’m tall — it’s also that I bend far less!)

And that was the end of the 15th Larwood Meeting. Thank you again to Caroline Buttler and her team for such an excellent event. We all learned more about our precious bryozoans, with the bonus of getting to explore parts of beautiful South Wales.

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Bryozoologists on the rocks in South Wales

Cardiff, Wales — There is a tradition at bryozoology meetings that we get out into the field as a group. Caroline Buttler (our organizer) and Lesley Cherns (Cardiff University) took us during the afternoon to two sites. The first (shown above) is the excellent Carboniferous-Triassic-Jurassic section at Ogmore-by-Sea. Tim Palmer took me here on an epic field trip three years ago, and my blog post from then has some of the important geological details. Basically, we have an extensive exposure of the Carboniferous Limestone (High Tor Limestone, Dinantian in age), topped by an unconformity with Triassic wadi deposits in some places and a Jurassic limestone (Sutton Stone, Hettangian). The group above is scampering about on an exposure of the Carboniferous Limestone.

Here the bryozoologists are examining the unconformity between the Carboniferous Limestone (which they’re standing on) and the Jurassic Sutton Stone above.

Andrej Ernst (University of Hamburg) managed to find tiny bryozoans in the Carboniferous Limestone.

Hans Arne Nakrem (University of Oslo; Natural History Museum) and me looking studious with the Carboniferous Limestone.

The Carboniferous Limestone has fantastic sections through large rugose corals.

The trace fossil Zoophycos (“rooster tails”) is also common in the Carboniferous Limestone.

Our second stop was at an Upper Triassic section at The Bendricks along the coast. Here we see desert and flash flood deposits with … wait for it …

… dinosaur footprints! One rather battered example of a print from a three-toed theropod dinosaur is shown above. (Grallator is the ichnogenus.) These were among the earliest dinosaurs, so seeing such a trackway is very cool. You can read here a detailed assessment of the tracks.

Thank you again to Caroline Buttler and Lesley Cherns for arranging this fun trip.

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Bryozoologists gather in Wales

Cardiff, Wales, United Kingdom — A dedicated group of bryozoan experts have gathered this week in Cardiff for the 15th Larwood Meeting. It is a diverse group of biologists and paleontologists, and I am proud to be among them. We approach the delightful Phylum Bryozoa from a variety of perspectives and enjoy the challenge of understanding each other’s work and ideas. As you can see above, these Larwood meetings are small, but we cover a lot of bryozoology in our sessions. Thank you to Caroline Buttler for expertly organizing this event and hosting us at Amgueddfa Cymru – National Museum Wales in the Cardiff city center. Today is our first day of the meeting.

This is the front of the main museum building.

My friend Paul Taylor was one of several speakers. His talk was fascinating and inspiring as always.

We had posters as well. This one was designed by Macy Conrad (’18) explaining her Independent Study work (with Paul Taylor and me) in the Campanian of southwestern France. It is officially the first Wooster Geology poster printed on cloth!

I gave a talk on the first day as well, with Caroline and Paul as co-authors. Bryoimmuration: You heard it here first.

The meeting continues through June 8.

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Wooster Geologists on Helvellyn

The black mountain icon indicates the location of Helvellyn in the Lake District.

During the last two weeks of May, Dr. Alley and were in the UK.  Part of the experience involved complaining about the inadequate width of UK roads, but there was also some undeniably beautiful geology.  One such location was Helvellyn, in the Lake District of England. This is one of the “top walks” in the UK, but note that the term “walk” has a very loose definition in British English.  Really, this is a hike, with a climb of nearly 3000 ft in about 4 mi.  If you’re a fan of glacially carved, open landscapes, it deserves the hype. 

The exposed rocks of the Helvellyn Range are part of the Borrowdale Volcanic Group. The volcanics here transitioned from primarily intermediate lava flows (andesite) to more silica-rich magma that resulted in pyroclastic flows and ignimbrite deposits.  This all occurred around 450 million years ago (Ordovician) — around the same time as the Taconic Orogeny in North America (most notably in New England).

That’s the raw material for the terrain, but the carving is much more recent.  Glaciers from the last glacial advance have gouged out the sides of these mountains into deep u-shaped troughs with steep sides and wide bottoms. Below Helvellyn sits a deep bowl called a cirque. This is where a large mountain glacier once originated, digging out a hole from which it later advanced.

Look back at Helvellyn Cirque from Birkhouse Moor.

If you go up into the cirque today, that depression has been filled with a small lake called a tarn. Tarns sits at the headwaters of watersheds, and the outlets are often some of the cleaner water you can find (although they may be turbid from lots of sediment).  This tarn, though, had a large number of sheep around it.  So I’d be a little more suspicious.

Red Tarn below Helvellyn.

Actually, the sheep are a more important aspect the the geology than you might think.  Looking down from Helvellyn, you can see the “Striding Edge”.  This is an arête, a sharp ridge that, thousands of years ago, was the boundary between two parallel glaciers.  The glaciers would have been flowing away from you in the image below.

View eastward from Helvellyn overlooking Striding Edge (an arête) and Red Tarn.

Finally, when walking along the northwest side of the mountain, you go by the Greenside Mine. In the 19th century, veins along a normal fault through the mountain were mined for the mineral galena (PbS), which also contains impurities of silver. 

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Summer Research in the Tree Ring Lab

This summer, students through the AMRE program with funding from the Sherman Fairchild Foundation are working in the Wooster Tree Ring Lab doing historical dating. Kendra Devereux, Alexis Lanier, and Juwan Shabazz are working with clients to date local barns, cabins and houses, to update pre-existing tree-ring chronologies, and to examine the collected data as a record of past climate. Two additional students are also working in the lab with data collected from Columbia Glacier in Prince William Sound, Alaska. Josh Charlton and Victoria Race, who are funded by NSF (National Science Foundation), will be helping out the AMRE students, but primarily will be developing ice flow models and using tree rings to reconstruct mass balance for Columbia Glacier in Prince William Sound, Alaska.

Summer researchers at Stebbins Gulch in the Holden Arboretum. Pictured left to right: Victoria Race (’19), Kendra Devereux (’21), Alexis Lanier (’20), Josh Charlton (’19), and Juwan Shabazz (’19).

The group has worked on a few different projects thus far. Their first assignment was to update the chronology for the Holden Arboretum in Kirtland, Ohio. The group has gone to the field site twice now to collect core samples from living Chestnut Oak trees in Stebbins Gulch. The AMRE group is currently working on mounting the fresh cores from our second trip and will be gathering and analyzing this data in the coming weeks.

Sampling chestnut oak trees at Stebbins Gulch.

Freshly extracted core at Stebbins Gulch.

Alexis Lanier removing increment borer from a sampled tree.

Kendra and Victoria looking at a giant burl on a sampled chestnut oak.

Chestnut oak tree being sampled at Stebbins Gulch.

The AMRE group has also worked with clients to date two local structures, Stratford Cabin and Gingery Barn. The group was able to date both samples and provide a calendar date for our clients, informing them when the trees used for building these structures were felled. Stratford cabin was dated to 1849 and Gingery Barn was dated at 1883. To provide these dates, the students counted and measured the tree rings. This data was then compared to other developed chronologies, a process called cross-dating, which allows us to assign a calendar date to these rings. 

In the coming weeks, the group will be finishing up the work on Stebbins Gulch, dating some more historical structures from Sonnenberg Village, and compiling Columbia Glacier data. Further information on these projects can be found on the Tree Ring Lab’s website.

Juwan drilling into a beam sample to extract a core from Gingery Barn.

Oak slice ready for sanding from Gingery Barn.

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Wooster Geologists in Southwestern Utah (May 2018)

This month, our geological technician Nick Wiesenberg and I had the privilege of taking two Wooster Independent Study students into southwestern Utah to do research on the Carmel Formation (Middle Jurassic). The students were Ethan Killian (’19) on the left and Galen Schwartzberg (’19) on the right. (You’ll get better view of them in the links below where we have blog entries for each day.) I plotted out the localities during a solo expedition last month. We hope we are re-establishing a field area for several more years of work.

This is the local stratigraphic column (modified from that on the Zion National Park website). The area is dominated by the majestic Navajo Sandstone, with our Carmel Formation one of the very few carbonate units.

Our main study areas. 1 = Gunlock region; 2 = Eagle Mountain Ranch; 3 = Dammeron Valley; and 4 = Diamond Valley (“Water Tank”).

Here are links to our daily blog posts —

May 16: Team Jurassic Utah sets to work
May 17: Team Jurassic Utah on the Ranch
May 18: Projects designed, Team Jurassic Utah begins fieldwork
May 19: A day for Jurassic oysters
May 20: Jurassic hardgrounds and Holocene lava flows in southwestern Utah
May 21: Team Jurassic Utah finishes essential data collection
May 22: Zion National Park and life in Santa Clara, Utah
May 23: An oyster ball nursery and Veyo pies on our last field day in SW Utah
May 24: Science and culture on Team Jurassic Utah’s last day

And here are the coordinates of our localities —

N Latitude Longitude Wooster Locality
Location name
37.27875299 -113.78777 C/W-157 C/W157
37.30712598 -113.740137 Eagle MT Road
37.25407499 -113.60516 C/W-751 Water tank
37.308755 -113.73653 C/W-142 Eagle Mtn Ranch cliff
37.27879096 -113.787768 Section base
37.27341698 -113.77961 C/W-752 Double layer DL
37.27298004 -113.778876 C/W-753 Hardground East
37.27855903 -113.787448 C/W-754 Hardground West HW
37.28063799 -113.80023 C/W-755 HFW Hardground
37.27056798 -113.776038 C/W-156 Nursery

Update: Nick heroically drove our samples back to our Wooster paleontology lab. What treasures there are in these three boxes!

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