Tragedy at Bear River: two very different historical narratives

July 17th, 2010

PRESTON, IDAHO–I knew on our drive this morning that Preston, Idaho, is famous as the setting for the Napoleon Dynamite movie. (You can even download “Napoleon Dynamite’s sweet map” of the town.) I did not know that just north of Preston on US Highway 91 is a place of great sadness — and some lessons about history.

Confluence of the Bear River and Battle Creek north of Preston, Idaho.

Bear River and Battle Creek join here in a fertile valley with green meadows and quiet farms. In January 1863, US Cavalry and infantry attacked a camp of Shoshone in what became known as the Battle of Bear River — and then much later  as the Bear River Massacre. You can follow the links to read the full story. I want to call attention to the separate narratives of the conflict found in two sets of memorials on the site:

Older account of the Battle of Bear River on a memorial erected by the Daughters of the Utah Pioneers and other groups.

A modern sign that is part of a memorial established by the Western Shoshone on a hilltop overlooking the site.

History as with science requires evidence to support hypotheses, and all such ideas are provisional because we never have all the information we need. Some hypotheses are stronger than others, though, as we weigh the evidence and the arguments. The tragedy at Bear River is a case where the more complete story only emerged into the public generations later. It is difficult to believe that one of the largest massacres of Native Americans in history is still so poorly known 147 years later.

Shoshone prayer tree at Bear River.

Holiday travel in southern Israel

June 12th, 2010

MITZPE RAMON, ISRAEL — Today we took the usual weekly shabbat break from fieldwork and spent the day as tourists.

Micah and Andrew exploring blocks of halite (rock salt -- sodium chloride) exposed on the slopes of Mount Sodom in the Dead Sea Rift Valley. This salt is part of a massive diapir (a "salt dome") which rose from below and punched its way up through the overlying sediments because of its relatively low density.

One of the remarkably preserved Roman fortified camps from the siege of Masada, 73-74 CE. This is a view down from the northern extremity of the Masada plateau.

The obligatory "student floating in the Dead Sea" photograph. This time the brave soul is Andrew Retzler.

Mamshit is the site of a Nabatean city on the Incense Route ("Spice Road") from Asia to the West. It flourished from the middle of the first century to the middle of the seventh century CE. It is located a few kilometers east of the modern Israeli city of Dimona.

Geological and Archaeological Park at Timna

June 5th, 2010

Cambrian sandstone exposures at Timna Park, southern Israel.

MITZPE RAMON, ISRAEL — Our last stop on our shabbat trip today was at Timna Park north of Eilat, Israel.  Here we saw a combination of geology and archaeology.  The porous sandstones exposed in the cliffs have been mineralized along fault and joint planes by a green copper ore.  The world’s oldest underground copper mines, dating back 6000 years, are here, along with hundreds of more “modern” mines hand-dug by Egyptians between the 14th and 12th centuries BCE.  The sandstone itself is rich with geological information, including cross-bedding, channels, and a very prominent honeycomb weathering.

Micah Risacher and Andrew Retzler at Timna Park.

Micah and Andrew are well protected in this complicated part of the world! No worries.

Blogger’s note: We have only limited internet access on this trip, so we may not be answering our personal email very often.  I send these posts in pre-written bursts when we get some internet time.

The Battle of Vicksburg and Geology

May 29th, 2010

Union cannon in original positions for the Siege of Vicksburg, Mississippi (1863).

VICKSBURG, MISSISSIPPI — The Wooster Geologists southern USA team spent the better part of the day at the site of the Civil War Battle of Vicksburg (May 18-July 4, 1863).  As is the case with virtually every battle, the local geology played a prominent role here.  Union forces wanted complete control of the Mississippi River to maintain communications with the northwest, to split the Confederacy into two large parcels, and to deny the South the use of the river for transport.  Vicksburg held the key, as President Lincoln said, to the Mississippi and maybe the success of the Union war strategy.  General U.S. Grant had an innovative (and expensive) plan to attack the fortress city from the land side to the east.  To do that he faced a series of fortified bluffs which protected the city’s flanks.  Several direct Union assaults on these bluffs failed, so a long siege of Vicksburg began until it surrendered for want of supplies and low morale.

Part of the battlefield in the bluffs just east of Vicksburg. Looking from the Union lines to the Confederate positions.

The immediate geological issues are derived from the Mississippi River and its ancestor.  At the end of the Pleistocene the glacial meltwaters flowing south through this area were tremendous, producing a vast braided stream complex.  Sediment from these channels was picked up by the wind and deposited in parts of the Mississippi Valley as thick layers of loess.  Loess is an unusual sediment because it is highly uniform in composition (silt-size subangular particles and clays) and it has a very high angle of repose (meaning it erodes into very steep slopes — cliffs, really.)  As the later Mississippi River meandered through its valley, it cut a series of bluffs at its easternmost extent at Vicksburg.  The city thus has a port on the river surrounded by high bluffs well suited for artillery to protect all approaches.

A loess cliff exposed on the side of a bluff in the city of Vicksburg.

Since loess sticks together so well, it is useful for digging entrenchments and caves for protection from artillery and rifle fire.  Many people in Vicksburg lived in loess caves during the siege to protect themselves from Union cannon fire.

Cannon on the Union side aimed towards a Confederate position in the Vicksburg bluffs.

Cannon on the Union line aimed towards a Confederate position in the Vicksburg bluffs.

We can’t say that geology controlled the Battle of Vicksburg — there are numerous and decisive factors of human courage, persistence and innovation — but we can conclude that both sides had to adapt to the geological circumstances in both military and civil ways.

Vicksburg National Cemetery. We never want to forget the cost of war. That the ages of most of the soldiers etched on the tombstones is that of present college students is especially poignant to us.

Since this is our last post from the Alabama and Mississippi summer 2010 geological team, we would like to thank our excellent guides Jon Bryan (Northwest Florida State College), Peter Harries (University of South Florida), and most especially George Phillips of the Mississippi Museum of Natural Science.  George spent days with us, giving us access to sites and people we could never have dreamed of meeting on our own.  Even more important, he is an excellent paleontologist with encyclopedic knowledge of Mississippi fossils, both invertebrate and vertebrate.  Through the generosity of George and many others, we have material for many future Cretaceous-Tertiary paleontological projects.  This trip has been an excellent example of the collaborative nature of geology.

A more recent history

May 28th, 2010

BALDWYN, MISSISSIPPI — When possible on these geological field trips we explore the local culture and history of the region in which we are temporary guests.  This morning we visited the small Civil War battlefield of Brice’s Crossroads (June 10, 1864) in Lee County, Mississippi.  It lies between our field sites at Blue Springs in the south and Owl Creek to the north.  The center of the battlefield is marked by two cannon and a stone monument which memorializes both the Union and Confederate dead.  A Confederate cemetery is nearby.

At the time of the battle, Union commander General William Tecumseh Sherman was conducting his famous March to the Sea through Georgia and other southern states.  (One of his soldiers was Corporal Julian Adolphus Wilson of the 57th Illinois Infantry — my grandfather’s grandfather.)  Confederate General Nathan Bedford Forrest and his cavalry threatened Sherman’s supply lines, so Union General Samuel Sturgis was sent into northern Mississippi to stop him.  With superior tactics, Forrest decisively defeated Sturgis at Brice’s Crossroads, forcing a long retreat.  It was a rare Confederate victory in that time and place, but Forrest was ultimately distracted from his goal of cutting Sherman’s communications.

Graves of some of the Confederate dead from the Brice's Crossroads battle.

End of Wooster Israeli Fieldwork — For Now

September 9th, 2009

MITZPE RAMON, ISRAEL–After today’s work near Makhtesh Ramon, our fieldwork is over for this season.  This evening I pack up our collections in my luggage, have a last dinner with Yoav and his family in their desert home, and then get some sleep before a very early departure tomorrow morning.  I am looking forward to returning soon with Wooster Independent Study students to continue our work in the Mesozoic rocks of southern Israel.

A Bronze Age tumulus (rock-covered grave) at the top of a hill north of Makhtesh Ramon.

A Bronze Age tumulus (rock-covered grave) at the top of a hill north of Makhtesh Ramon.

Bronze Age Predecessors

September 7th, 2009

MAKHTESH GADOL, ISRAEL–My field area contains several rocky ruins like the structure pictured below.  These are the remains of shelters and livestock enclosures constructed during the Bronze Age about 4000 years ago.  Flint chips and the occasional scraper can be found in and around these sites.  Sometimes they are so common that I have to pick them out of my fossil collections.  It is a nice touch to this fieldwork to have evidence of human antiquity in the same places I’m studying the very deep past.

Bronze Age structural remains in Makhtesh Gadol.

Bronze Age structural remains in Makhtesh Gadol.

A Wooster Geologist in St. Petersburg, Russia

June 16th, 2009

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I am absolutely stunned by the beauty of this city.  The ornate architecture and building colors combined with the water and changing skies, all marinated in more historical drama than any city should bear, is overwhelming.  I can’t imagine a more different Russian city from Moscow.  I have been privileged to see the sights here as a guest with personal narrative tours.  It is quite the place to emerge into after all those field days.  Our field house is only four hours by train from the city center, yet it seems thousands of kilometers away now.

My work here with Andrey is to look at his collection of Ordovician limestone and fossil samples at the University of St. Petersburg.  That task alone is in an impressive setting.  His office is in the Twelve Colleges building, which was designed by the Italian architect Trezzini and completed in 1742.  It is an extraordinarily long set of twelve connected buildings, all linked by a Mediterranean-style corridor.

My morning walking commute on the left, and the entrance to the Twelve Colleges building on the right.

My morning walking commute on the left, and the entrance to the Twelve Colleges building on the right.

The collections are in a classic old European cabinet room dominated by portraits of generations of geologists and filled with glass-topped sets of drawers.

Twelve Colleges corridor on the left; paleontological collections on the right.

Twelve Colleges corridor on the left; paleontological collections on the right.

After studying the specimens, Andrey took me on a long walk through the city.  Our first stop was the living quarters and laboratory of the university’s most famous professor, Dmitry Mendeleev.  We had a personal tour of this amazing man’s place, complete with stories of his life.  Not only did he develop the periodic table of the elements, but he was also an engineer, economist … and geologist!  He recognized the future value of petroleum and worked on ways for Russia to efficiently use its oil resources.  We then continued across three islands making up the most historical part of the city, seeing all that we could.  With the white nights extending the afternoon light, that was quite a bit.

St. Isaac's Cathedral

St. Isaac's Cathedral

On the next day I made my own trip to see a famous ship I’ve long dreamed of boarding: the Cruiser Aurora.  This is the ship that signaled the beginning of the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917 by broadcasting a speech by Lenin and then firing a shot from its forward gun which started the storming of the Winter Palace.  It is also a veteran of the Russo-Japanese War and served throughout WWI and WWII.

The Cruiser Aurora

The Cruiser Aurora

The War Was Not Long Ago

June 11th, 2009

Building remnants near the Putilovo Quarry, Leningrad Region.

Building remnants near the Putilovo Quarry, Leningrad Region.

PUTILOVO, LENINGRAD REGION, RUSSIA–Nearly every evening one of the many vodka toasts of our geological party is: “To the great victory over the Germans!”  This may be because all of our study sites were on one frontline or another during World War II, or because this is a group of men of a certain age interested in the history of their fathers and grandfathers.  We were on the left bank of the Neva River yesterday and passed many monuments, preserved tanks, and large signs saying, “Always Remember the Defenders of the Motherland!” and “Here the Invader Was Stopped!”.  We pass by almost every day a memorial “To the Unknown Drivers” of supply trucks to the besieged city of Leningrad.  (They paid a horrendous price transporting goods across frozen Ladoga Lake under intense bombardment.)  The place where Vladimir Putin’s father was wounded on the bank of the Neva was pointed out to me.  I’m also told when we cross into territories “the Germans never took”.

Leningrad defenders memorial.

Leningrad defenders memorial.

Remanants of Russian trenches, Neva River.

Remnants of Russian trenches, Neva River.

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There is otherwise very little evidence of the war here because almost every pre-war building was completely destroyed in this area and the rubble cleared.  It is only in a few small villages that I’ve seen overgrown shot-up ruins of building walls, or the occasional stone roots of a bombed bridge.  Scaling these observations upwards to match the size of this war zone produces an astonishing image of destruction.  No wonder that two generations later the war is still very much in mind.

And there is a palimpsest of destruction in this area of Russia.  This bridge over the River Tosna (N59.64682°, E30.80679) was destroyed by White forces in 1919 during the Civil War.

And there is a palimpsest of destruction in this area of Russia. This bridge over the River Tosna (N59.64682°, E30.80679) was destroyed by White forces in 1919 during the Civil War.

The Other Kind of Deep History

June 7th, 2009

STARAYA LADOGA, LENINGRAD REGION, RUSSIA–This place, known as “Old Ladoga” is where the Russian state began.  It is an important trade junction situated on the Volkhov River not far from where it enters Lake Ladoga.  The Viking roots of this country are dramatically evident in a series of eighth to tenth century burial mounds on both banks of the river.

Viking burial mounds along the Volkhov River.

Viking burial mounds along the Volkhov River.

One of these mounds, the largest, is reputed to be the grave of Oleg, the most vigorous of the earliest rulers.  I couldn’t help juxtaposing it with an image of a German World War II helmet we found nearby.  The hand of history lies heavy on this fertile land with broad rivers and no other natural defenses.

Oleg's Mound (reputedly), and a German World War II helmet found in the woods nearby.

Oleg's Mound (reputedly), and a German World War II helmet found in the woods nearby.

This site was fortified for centuries.  The current manifestation is the Ladoga Fortress from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Ladoga Fortress.

Ladoga Fortress.

It protected a river crossing and controlled navigation on the lower Volkhov.  Unfortunately virtually all of the original fortress was destroyed in WWII, so what you see above is a reconstruction based on pre-war maps and photographs.

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